Navy bean soup at Upper Blue Lake

Last month I prepared Navy bean soup for my sister and her husband at Upper Blue Lake in Eldorado National Forest. This was the fifth year that Debbie and I joined them at the lake. They camped at the lake several years before us.

In the weeks leading up to the trip, my sister and I coordinate the menu. We split the dinners and breakfasts. Each family is left to its own devises for lunch. I usually pack too much food. My original thought was to prepare Navy bean soup for lunch. The planned meal (sauteed chicken breast with cilantro cream sauce) remained in the cooler.

Since we snacked that day, I suspended a 10-inch Dutch oven over the fire at noon and began the soup. This not the first time I have cooked soup at the lake. In 2011, I prepared split pea soup for our mother, who was camping with us. You can view the recipe and the story behind the recipe.

To begin the soup, I set the Dutch oven over the cooking fire. After it pre-heated, 6 ounces diced salt pork was rendered in the pot. One diced carrot and 1 diced onion went into the pot next. The vegetables and salt pork were stirred every couple minutes until lightly caramelized.

One pound small white beans were added to the pot along with 6 cups cold water. The beans were seasoned with bay leaves, granulated garlic, coarse ground black pepper and cayenne pepper. I added 2 additional cups of water after the beans had cooked three hours. I spent most of the afternoon reading and tending the fire.

Around 4 o'clock, I hiked up the mountain to this grove of Lodgepole pine trees. The is situated on a shelf on southern slope of The Nipple, a peak that overlooks Upper Blue Lake. During the hike, I left the soup over a small cooking fire. I added water to the beans and recharged the fire upon my return, about 45 minutes later.

The pot of soup was suspended over the fire from on a tripod. I left the lid on the pot to aid in cooking the beans. Given the altitude of 8,100 feet above sea level, it took just over 6 hours to soften the beans to the consistence of soup. The soup was ready to serve around 6 p.m. The convertible fire iron set was built by Campmaster of Mesa, Arizona, in the early 1990s. The iron set can be set up as a bipod or trip pod.

Chicken pozole verde at camp

We served chicken pozole verde for the first time at Oakland Feather River Camp yesterday for lunch. Around three and one-half gallons were used for 80 campers and staff. My only regret is that I didn't have any pumpkin seeds for the soup. Here's a picture of the condiments.

MENU FOR A GROUP OF ADULTS AND SCHOOL-AGED CHILDREN

Sunday Afternoon

Chicken pozole verde with traditional condiments

(Sliced radishes, chopped onions, shredded cabbage,
diced jalapeno chilies, chopped cilantro, lemon & lime wedges)

Grilled ham & cheese sandwich

Barbecue potato chips

Massaged kale salad

Full salad bar

Chocolate chip cookies

Vegan black bean chili

At Oakland Feather River Camp, vegetarian meals are offered in addition to the regular meat-based meal. The vegetarian meal is served on a separate steam line to avoid confusion. This allows vegetarian diners (and meat eaters who enjoy vegetarian cuisine as well) to select their meal without having to worry about meat products. Any food item placed on the vegetarian line is prepared without meat, poultry or fish.

I often serve the same entrée and side dishes on both meat and vegetarian lines. When chili con carne is menued on the regular menu, for instance, bean chili is placed on the vegetarian serving line. This simplifies production and allows the cooks to make efficient use of their time. While the chili con carne and black bean chili are cooked in separate pots, the beans for both entrees will be cooked in the same pot, then divided between the two applications.

When we have a number of vegans in camp, I instruct the vegetarian cook to prepare as many entrées as possible without animal products. This helps to avoid duplication of effort for the vegetarian and vegan population at camp. To please vegetarian campers, we place grated cheese and sour cream on the vegetarian line.

I began preparing vegan black bean chili for the Argonaut Farm to Fork Café in Coloma, California, in December. It quickly became a favorite of our customers. And I enjoy cooking the chili week after week. This recipe will supplant the one we were using last summer at camp.

Adapted from Chef Helen Lacono's gem of a cookbook, Kaua'i Farmers' Market Soups (self-published in 2013), the chili is a marriage of freshly cooked black beans with a rich puree of onions, poblano chiles, carrots, red bell peppers and garlic. A pot of beans surrounded by a smooth, mildly spiced sauce, makes for a wonderful bowl of comfort food.

VEGAN BLACK BEAN CHILI

Use the black bean chili recipe as a starting point, adding or subtracting ingredients to suit the tastes of your campers. For a chunky chili, skip the puréeing step. Simply cut the vegetables to uniform size, sauté in olive oil and add to the cooked beans.

For a smoky chili, replace the paprika with smoked paprika. Chipotle peppers add a smoky dimension as well. You can also roast the poblano chiles and red bell peppers over an open flame if desired.

For a meat chili, add 3-1/2 to 4 pounds grilled diced Italian sausage or cooked ground turkey to the chili. My favorite is a chicken and apple sausage.

3 pounds black beans
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 pound onion, diced small
8 ounces carrot, diced small
1 pound poblano pepper, diced small
1-1/4 pounds red bell pepper, diced small
1 ounce  garlic, minced
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup chili powder
2 tablespoons ground cumin
2 tablespoons paprika
1/4 cup dried oregano
2 tablespoons dried basil
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 cups crushed tomatoes
1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons Tamari soy sauce
Vegetable stock

Pick over beans, removing discolored beans and foreign matter. Wash thoroughly. Place beans and salt in 10 to 12-quart stockpot. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer and cover. Add water as necessary to keep the beans covered. Simmer 1-1/2 hours or until just tender. Drain beans, reserving cooking liquid if used to thin the chili.

Puree onion, carrot, chili pepper, bell pepper and garlic in a blender or food processor. In a heavy skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Cook puree mixture in olive oil for 10 to 15 minutes. Add chili powder, cumin, paprika, cayenne, oregano and basil to puree mixture. Continue cooking for 1 to 2 minutes. Add to beans in stockpot.

Add tomato, Worcestershire sauce and soy sauce to chili. Simmer over low heat 20 to 30 minutes to develop flavor. Thin chili to desired consistency with vegetable stock or reserved bean liquid. Adjust seasoning.

Makes 6-1/2 quarts. Portion into 25 (8-ounce) or 20 (10-ounce) servings. If desired, serve over steamed brown rice and garnish with fresh salsa.

Red lentil, sweet potato and apple soup

I recently traveled 3,000 miles to find suitable soup weather. With no measurable rain and snow since early December, Northern California has been enjoying unseasonably pleasant days. Spring-like days have left us wondering how long this drought will endure. While the mornings often see sub-freezing temperatures, each afternoon brings a new record high.

As I prepared to fly to the East Coast to visit my mother, Northern Virginia and Washington, DC, was recovering from a week of freezing temperatures. With lows in the teens and highs hovering in the mid-30s, the city barely had time to thaw each day before nightfall. That was the week airline flights were being canceled by the thousands.

A wonderful bowl of soup certainly made sense when I arrived. My mother and I enjoyed grilled lamb and kubideh kebabs over saffron basmati rice at Café Shirez on the Friday of my visit. After running errands on the warm, rainy afternoon, we settled in for a quiet evening of soup, conversation and reading.

I wanted to test a soup with red lentil, sweet potato and apples for work. Since mom is always open to try new flavors, I felt she would enjoy it. (Click here and here for soups that mom has enjoyed in the past.) And I was also able to freeze several portions for later enjoyment.

As part of my winter job at Coloma Resort, I've been cooking soups for the Argonaut Café. I introduced the soup on my return to California to positive reviews. The café features a fresh soup each day at noon. I will post personal recipes as I develop them.

We long for soup weather in California. I want to escape a cold, rainy day and cuddle with a warm bowl of red lentil, sweet potato and apple soup. Lord willing, soup weather will return to California soon.

RED LENTIL, SWEET POTATO AND APPLE SOUP

This recipe is to feed a crowd. To serve a family, divide the recipe in fourths and proceed with the instructions.

8 ounces unsalted butter
2 pounds onion, diced small
3 pounds sweet potato, peeled and cubed
2 pounds carrot, peeled and cubed
2-1/2 pounds Granny Smith apple, peeled and cubed
8 ounces red lentils
1 tablespoon fresh grated ginger
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons ground coriander
2 teaspoons chili powder
4 teaspoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons ground black pepper
2 quarts chicken or vegetable stock
2 quarts apple cider

In 10- to 12-quart stockpot, melt butter over medium heat; add onions, sweet potatoes, carrots and apples. Sweat over medium heat until onion is translucent and soft, stirring often.

Stir in lentils, ginger, cumin, coriander, chili powder, salt and pepper. Pour stock and cider into pot. Bring to boil over high heat. Reduce to simmer, cover and cook until vegetables and lentils are soft, 30 to 45 min.

Puree soup in blender or food processor, in batches if necessary, until smooth. Thin with water or stock as needed.

Prepares approximately 6-1/4 quarts. Serves 25 (8-ounce) portions. Garnish soup with sour cream, crème fraiche or plain yogurt.

Albondigas soup

Debbie and I are spending quality time with her family in Ocean Shores, Washington, this week. The whole clan (my in-laws and Debbie's sister and husband) had settled into our rooms by Saturday evening. One of Debbie's brothers will join us tomorrow.

We discussed meals for the week Sunday afternoon. A trip to the supermarket after worship last night confirmed the menu. Since preparing albondigas soup last week at work, I wanted a second chance to perfect my recipe. My brother-in-law and I prepared the soup this evening.

The main cooks for the week are my sister-in-law, brother-in-law and myself. We each selected dinner entrees that appeal to the family and we enjoy cooking. The remaining dinners will consist of spaghetti with Italian sausage, fish tacos (we are on the coast) and cheesy potato soup. We may sneak in yeasted pancakes in for breakfast on morning one morning.

The family enjoyed the Mexican meatball soup this evening. With warm flour tortillas to sop up the broth, each person added in their favorite garnishes. Finely shredded green cabbage and thinly sliced radishes, along with chopped green onions and fresh cilantro leaves, let each person tailor the soup to his or her taste. A squeeze or two of lime brightened the soup.

This recipe is a keeper. The combination of caramelized onion and carrot with the roasted red pepper boosted the flavor of the packaged chicken broth. (Certainly use fresh stock when it's available.) The soup contained the essentials of a basic aldondigas soup. Meatballs with rice and a rich chicken broth with vegetables rounded out the soup. This one is going in my recipe file for work.

ALBONDIGAS SOUP

Albondigas soup easily adapts to suit your taste. You don't need to restrict the vegetables to carrots, potatoes and green beans. Use any combination of vegetables that you desire. Zucchini, chayote, fresh corn on the cob or greens are all acceptable choices. Be mindful that space in the soup pot limits your choice of vegetables to three or four. Fresh or dried chile peppers will give the soup a spicy note.

I like to brown the meatballs in a heavy skillet before adding them to the soup. The resulting crust adds texture and flavor to the meatballs and soup.

Meatballs:

1 pound ground beef

1 pound ground pork

2 large eggs

3/4 cup long grain rice

1/2 onion, diced small

1 jalapeno chile pepper, diced small

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 cup chopped cilantro

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

Soup:

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, diced small

1 carrot, diced small

3 roasted red peppers, diced small

2 quarts chicken broth

3 potatoes, diced small

8 ounces green beans, trimmed and cut to size

Zest of 1 lime

To prepare the meatballs, mix the beef, pork, eggs, rice, chile pepper, garlic, cilantro and seasonings. Form mixture into 1-inch meatballs. This should give you 25 to 30 meatballs. Set aside.

Heat the oil over medium heat in a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy bottomed pot. Add the onion and carrot. Slowly caramelize until the vegetables are light brown, about 20 minutes. Add the garlic and continue cooking an additional 5 minutes.

Add the red peppers and broth to the pot. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook 10 minutes. Place the meatballs, potatoes and green beans in the broth. Cook until the rice in the meatballs is done, about 20 minutes. Stir in the lime zest. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.

Makes 4 quarts. To serve, set 2 or 3 meat balls in a bowl. Ladle the soup with over the meatballs. This recipe will serve a gathering of 6 to 8 persons as the main course. Or it will serve 15 as a soup coarse.

Provide shredded cabbage, sliced radishes, chopped cilantro, chopped green onion and lime wedges for garnish if desired. Warm flour tortillas should also accompany the soup.

Smoky tortilla soup for a potluck

While Debbie and I knew of the after worship potluck for a week or so, we didn't learn of its theme until late last night. Debbie was told the theme is Mexican after a phone call to the hostess. My initial thought was to prepare tortilla chips and salsa. All I needed were tomatoes since we have tortilla chips in the cupboard.

I changed my mind after returning from the corner market (appropriately named the Busy Spot!). I didn't want to duplicate another dish at the potluck. So I prepared a large pot of smoky tortilla soup. As it turned out, I made a good move. Another person brought chips, salsa and guacamole. With tacos, taquitos, flautas and enchiladas, the soup was a winner. Most enjoyed its flavor and mild bite.


I cooked the soup out on the patio this morning. With the range and oven in the shop for repairs, I've been cooking most of our meals over the two-burner Camp Chef stove. The soup was similar to my recipe from September 2010. Smoked paprika and chipotle powder gave the soup a smoky flavor. And canned crushed tomatoes stood in for tomatillos.



I prepared the soup base at home. Corn tortillas strips, shredded cheddar cheese and chopped cilantro (for garnish) went into containers. Once we arrived at the the potluck, the hostess let me re-heat the soup on her range. I dumped the tortilla strips into the soup and heated it until they dissolved into the soup. The soup was served with cheese and cilantro on the side.



Tomato soup with poblano chiles

The residents at work welcome a pot of scratch-made soup each weekday for lunch. I prepared five hearty soups as two rain storms sloshed their way through Sacramento this week. A thick lentil soup was served alongside Polish sausage on Monday. Tuesday saw the traditional match-up of grilled cheese sandwich and tomato soup.

 Wednesday's chicken tender was served with up with a flavor packed chicken rice soup. Cheesy potato soup complimented a tuna salad sandwich on Thursday. And on Friday, the residents enjoyed tomato rice soup with an Ortega cheeseburger.

Tuesday's tomato soup was, by far, the star of the week. It's one that I enjoy cooking, especially during rainy weather. Twice featured on these pages (here and here), the soup can be prepared in less than one hour.

To prepare, I generally combine one-part tomato sauce, one-part broth (chicken or vegetable) and one-part bechemel. This soup uses a variation of that formula. Instead of preparing the three components in separate pots, I cooked it in a single stockpot.

I wanted to prepare tomato soup with a differing flavor profile, something that's better than canned tomato soup. Salsa is always popular at work. With a large stock of poblano chile peppers in the refrigerator, I figured the typical salsa ingredients (tomatoes, peppers, cumin and cilantro) would provide a robust Southwestern flavor profile for the soup.

While the soup doesn't mimic the flavor of salsa, poblano chile peppers, cumin and cilantro give the tomato a unique flavor profile. And please leave feedback (especially Chef Brian and Chef Tyrone). I'm always interested in how others (both professionals and home cooks) modify my recipes. Enjoy.

TOMATO SOUP WITH POBLANO CHILES

Ingredient amounts are estimated as I prepared the soup on the fly.

4 ounces unsalted butter
1 medium onion, diced
2 carrots, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
3 roasted poblano chile peppers, chared skin removed and diced
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 (8 ounce) can tomato paste
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 (28 ounce) can crushed tomatoes
1-1/2 quarts chicken or vegetable stock
2 tablespoons lime juice
2 bay leaves
1-1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
2 cups sour cream or Mexican crema
1/3 cup grated Parmesan or cojita cheese

Melt butter in a 8- to 10-quart heavy sauce pot over medium heat. Add onion, carrot, celery and peppers to butter. Sweat until softened, but not browned. Add flour and stir to form a white roux. Cook roux-vegetable mixture for 2 minutes over low heat, stirring continually. Stir in tomato paste and cumin and cook for an additional minute.

Add crushed tomatoes, chicken stock, lime juice, bay leaves, oregano and cilantro. Stir to combine. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 30 to 45 minutes to meld flavors. In a medium bowl, temper sour cream by slowly whisking 2 cups of hot soup into sour cream. Pour tempered sour cream into soup while whisking.

Check seasoning. Add a little sugar if necessary to counteract the acidity of the tomatoes. If the soup is too thick, thin with a little chicken broth or milk. Season with salt and ground white pepper to taste.

Makes approximately 3 quarts, or 12 (8-ounce) servings. Garnish each bowl with fresh cilantro leaves and Parmesan cheese.

Spinach and chickpea soup

Here's recipe that I tried out on the residents at work this week. This is one of those soups that was born out of necessity. With one quart of leftover spinach in the refrigerator, I needed a creative way to use it. I quickly ruled out cream of spinach soup. With the heat, I didn't think the residents would care for it.

 This recipe is adapted from a similar recipe at Kalyn's Kitchen. The combination of chickpeas, spinach and tomatoes appealed to me. I soon realized that spinach and chickpea soup is a multi-season pleaser. Dried basil and frozen spinach stand in for when fresh spinach and basil are in short supply in the winter. Once fresh products appear at the market in the spring, you'll enjoy the as it's written.

SPINACH AND CHICKPEA SOUP

Four cups canned chickpeas, drained and rinsed, may be used in place of dried peas. Use 1-1/2 pounds frozen spinach, thawed, in place of fresh in of the fresh.

1 pound dried chickpeas
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, diced small
2 tablespoons minced garlic
1-1/2 quarts chicken stock or vegetable broth
1 (28-ounce) diced tomatoes
1 pinch crushed red pepper
2 quarts fresh spinach
1/2 cup fresh basil, chiffonade
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Soak chickpeas overnight in cold water. Drain and discard water. Place peas in heavy stockpot and cover with cold water. Simmer for 1-1/2 to 2 hours or until tender; Drain and set aside.

In a 10- to 12-quart stockpot, heat olive oil. Add onions and sweat until translucent. Add garlic and stir, cooking for a minute or two. Do not brown or burn garlic.

Add stock or broth, tomatoes and peppers. Simmer for 30 minutes to blend flavors. Add chickpeas and spinach. Cook an additional 15 minutes or until spinach is wilted. Add basil, vinegar and cheese. Cook 5 minutes to wilt basil and blend flavors.

If desired, puree 3 cups of the soup in a blender or food processor. Return pure to soup and stir. This will give soup additional body. Adjust seasoning; serve with freshly shaved Parmesan cheese if desired. Prepares 1 gallon of soup.

Pozole verde

I began my pozole verde for the Christian Chef International conference on Tuesday afternoon. I used the afternoon break from the conference agenda to work on my mise en place for a special Dutch oven dinner on Wednesday. I needed the extra time to get ready for the meal on the next day.

My first task was to rip the husk from three pounds of tomatillos. Quartered tomatillos went into a sauce pan with chunked jalapeno chile peppers and cilantro stems. After simmering for 30 minutes, I pureed the sauce and strained it into a storage container. I would fry the sauce on Wednesday.

Next a pound of green pumpkin seeds went into a large dry skillet (no oil). I gave the seeds a light toast and moved them over to the food processor. I set the ground pumpkin seeds aside for use in the finished soup on Wednesday.

At noon on Wednesday, I set five pounds dice pork butt, four large quartered onions and two dozen cloves of garlic into a gallon of water. I set the stockpot over a burner and simmered it all afternoon.

About 45 minutes before dinner I added the contents of a drained #10 can of hominy to the soup base. The salsa verde from Tuesday quickly followed as did several bay leaves and a handful of dried thyme. The soup was ready to serve after it had simmered for 30 minutes.

Around 35 conference attendees and camp staff devoured the two and one-half gallons of soup. You could say I was a "happy camper." A clean soup pot and happy diners gave me a broad smile!

POZOLE VERDE

Individual tastes and makeup of each group will determine the condiments needed for the pozole. These amounts are based on the tastes of the residents at work.

Soup base:
2 quarts water
2 large white onions, cut in half
1 head garlic
1-1/2 pounds pork shoulder, diced

Chili verde sauce:
4 ounces pumpkin seeds
1 pound fresh tomatillos, husk removed and quartered
2 jalapeno chile peppers, seeded & chopped
1 cup chopped cilantro
1/4 cup vegetable oil

Finish soup:
3 (#2-1/2) cans hominy, drained and rinsed
2 teaspoons dried thyme
2 bay leaves

Condiments:
2-3 bunches radishes, sliced
1 white onion, chopped
10 limes, cut in quarters
1 cup chopped cilantro
1/2 head cabbage, shredded
3 jalapeno peppers, minced

TO PREPARE SOUP BASE: Pour water in 12- to 15-quart stockpot. Add onion, garlic and pork. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer. Simmer 1 to 1-1/2 hours or until pork is tender.

TO PREPARE CHILI VERDE SAUCE: Place pumpkin seeds into an ungreased skillet and heat through over medium heat, shaking pan from time to time, until they begin to pop around and swell noticeably; do not let them brown. Cool; grind them finely in a spice grinder or blender.

Set tomatillos into a pan with 1-cup water. Cook over medium heat until soft and mushy - about 15 minutes (there should be hardly any liquid in the pan; if there is, drain them). Transfer mixture to a blender bowl. Add chopped cilantro, fresh chiles, and 2 cups water and blend until smooth.

Heat oil in a heavy pan and press blended ingredients through a fine strainer. Fry over fairly high heat, stirring from time to time, for about 5 minutes.

Stir in the ground seeds and cook for 10 minutes longer, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan until the broth has thickened slightly and is well seasoned - about 10 minutes.

TO FINISH SOUP: Remove pork and shred. Return meat to pot with chile sauce, hominy, oregano and bay leaves. Continue cooking to blend flavors. Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper and chile sauce.

Serve an 8-ounce ladle to each person. Set condiments out in bowls and let each person garnish his bowl of soup to suit his personal taste. Prepares approximately 1 gallon of soup.

Adapted from a recipe in The Art of Mexican Cooking by Diana Kennedy (2008 ed.). Kennedy uses about 20 sorrel leaves in place of cilantro. The recipe is a favorite of hers from Chilapa in the Mexican state of Guerro.

Rick Bayless uses this procedure: Simmer tomatillos in salted water until tender and drain. Add toasted pumpkin seeds, green chile, onion and herbs with broth from stockpot, then puree in blender. Push through strainer into hot skillet with lard. Fry sauce 7 minutes until thickened. Pour sauce into soup base.

Bayless uses two Mexican herbs:
(1) Espazate (pigweed or Mexican tea) - pepper, licorice flavor
(2) Haja santa - anise flavor; use fennel bulb tops in its place

Summa soup

This article was originally published to Suite101.com in November 2001. Carefully selected, leftovers become the perfect starting place for an impromptu soup in camp. It's a skill that I use at work some 35 years later.

Summa this. Summa that. That's what Navy cooks called the supper soup.

Each afternoon, the ship's cook added all of the noonday leftovers to the soup pot. Since the supper menu only identified the soup as "Soup Du Jour," the cooks hand a free hand at creating any soup for the evening meal. Summa soup, as the cooks called it, gave an outlet for breakfast and dinner leftovers, and it tested their culinary skills.

Leftover meals pose a problem for camp cooks as well. They eat up precious space in the ice chest, and they can quickly spoil if handled improperly. So, it's best to use them quickly. Summa soup is the answer this dilemma. Like Navy cooks, camp cooks can use leftover beans, spaghetti or stroganoff, for instance, as the foundation for flavor-packed soups.

A camp cooking adventure

Summa soup is the ultimate culinary adventure -- at least in the realm of leftovers. You never know how the soup's going to taste. Today, the soup's ingredients meld wonderfully. Tomorrow, they fall short. But despite expectations, summa soup's always good.

It's as easy as blending all the leftovers that you want into a large stockpot. All you need a leftover dish and a few other ingredients. Sometimes, leftovers are sufficient to build a summa soup. Other times, you'll need to add a few fresh ingredients to build your summa soup. Here are a few ideas:

Leftover beans are a good place to begin. Make vegetable bean soup by adding steamed vegetables (who doesn't have steamed broccoli or green beans lurking in the ice chest), chicken stock and bacon or sausage. Sprinkle salt and pepper, add fresh thyme and the soup is ready. It makes a quick lunch.

Leftover spaghetti easily becomes minestrone. Add chicken stock, julienned green peppers, shredded green cabbage and chickpeas. Season with salt and pepper and top each serving with freshly grated Parmesan cheese. The spaghetti sauce gives the soup its foundation while the pasta and vegetables add substance and a little starch for body. The stock brings it all together like an orchestra conductor.

Leftover stroganoff transforms into a beef mushroom soup. It's as simple as adding beef stock and cream. You can use milk if cream is too rich. Just remember to thicken the soup with flour or cornstarch. Stroganoff transforms into beef mushroom soup with a hint of tanginess.

With a little imagination, you'll have wonderful soup to accompany sandwiches on a drizzly day in camp. But remember summa soup is risky business. You may never create the same soup twice. Each meal is an adventure.

Sharpen your soup-making skills

Start with any foundation desired. Expect its flavor to dominate your soup like the beef and mushrooms of the stroganoff. What you start with doesn't matter. Chili becomes Mexican spiced soup with rice and beans. Leftover roast serves as the foundation for quick vegetable beef soup.

Just add to the flavors that your ice chest presents to you. Have chicken, beef or vegetable stock handy to add volume and the essence of meats or vegetables to your foundation. Fresh herbs like parsley, basil, thyme or cilantro enhance a lackluster dish. Soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce or hot pepper sauce send the soup on tangents -- Asian, American or Southwestern.

Even if your ice chest is lacking leftover steamed rice for a chicken vegetable, try leftover pasta or beans. Any complimentary ingredient is fair game. Start with traditional accompaniments and expand.

When you cook you summa soup, simmer. Don't boil. If you do, you run the risk of cooking everything into a pulp. Bring the pot to a boil and then reduce the heat on your camp stove as low as it'll go. By simmering, the meat, vegetables, pasta and starches will heat slowly so they retain they're shape and texture.

Food safety with leftovers

Remember to heat leftovers to 165 degrees. This is necessary to kill any wayward bacteria that may be lurking in your leftovers. If you don't have a thermometer to test the temperature, let the pot simmer (when bubbles are barely breaking the surface) for about 15 minutes. Since a simmer is about 190 degrees at sea level, this will ensure your safety.

Avoid using leftovers that have been hiding in your ice chest for more than three days. And throw out any that are questionable. If leftovers have a sour or putrid odor, toss them. Also avoid any that look funny, are discolored or have mold growing on the surface.

Is your appetite still there? Open the ice chest and see what lays hidden on the bottom. It just may be the beginning of your next culinary adventure.

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Guidelines for handling leftovers in camp are found in my article "Handling Leftovers in Camp or Spaghetti that's Better Leftover." The leftover spaghetti's a good place to start.

Chicken and sausage gumbo

I prepare chicken and sausage gumbo every fourth Tuesday at work. Most of the residents enjoy it. And a couple staff always ask for the leftovers on Wednesday morning!

When I began working at the recovery home two years ago, I struggled with the stew. The roux gave me fits. I gave up after four or five months. For the next year, I used a packaged gumbo mix to flavor the pot. Though the residents still enjoyed the dinner, I wanted to give it another try.

My motivation came last spring when I found a copy of Authentic Cajun Cooking, by Chef Paul Prudhomme, at a thrift store in Placerville. Known for "propell(ing) the distinctive cuisine of his native Louisiana into the international spotlight," Chef Paul's gumbo recipes captivated my interest. The makers of Tabasco hot sauce published the booklet around 1982.

I focused on the roux since I was satisfied the rest of the recipe. For the several months I browned the roux in about 10 minutes. While this saved time in the kitchen, I was not happy with the flavor the roux gave the gumbo. I slowly realized the only way to create the best roux was to slow the process down.

I now heat the oil for the roux over high heat, then quickly whisk the flour. I immediately turn the heat down to medium. I find that I need to start incrementally turning the heat down after about 10 minutes. It takes at least 30 minutes to produce a roux with a deep reddish-brown color. To avoid burning the roux, even slightly, I'm constantly stirring the roux. Your whole focus should be the roux.

CHICKEN AND SAUSAGE GUMBO

I have tailored this recipe to satisfy the tastes of the residents at work. While I usually use a mild Polish sausage for the gumbo, andouille is the best for the stew.

1-1/2 cups vegetable oil
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 large onion, diced
1/2 bunch celery, diced
3 large green bell pepper, diced
3 quarts chicken stock
1 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
2 teaspoons granulated garlic
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 tablespoons Louisiana-style hot sauce
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
3 bay leaves
2 tablespoons filé powder
2 pounds frozen okra
4 pounds diced cooked chicken
2 pounds sausage, diced

Heat oil in a heavy skillet until hot. Gradually stir in flour. Immediately turn heat down to medium. Cook, stirring constantly, until roux is dark reddish-brown, about 20 to 30 minutes. Slowly reduce heat under skillet as the roux browns.

After the roux has brown to desired color, add trinity (onion, celery and bell pepper) and stir to combine. Continue cooking until trinity softens. Set aside.

Heat chicken stock in a 12- to 15-quart stockpot to a boil. Add black and white peppers, garlic, cayenne, hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce, bay leaves and filé powder and stir.

Slowly add roux-trinity mixture to stock, stirring constantly. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for about 30 to 45 minutes, uncovered.

Add okra, chicken and sausage and simmer until chicken is done. Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper and hot sauce.

To serve, place a mound of white rice in the center of a large bowl. Ladle 8 ounces of gumbo around the rice. Serve immediately. Serves 25 (8-ounce) portions. Yield: 6-1/2 quarts.

Story behind Blue Lakes split pea soup

I rarely post a recipe without telling the story behind it. I made an exception Tuesday evening when I published the recipe for Blue Lakes split pea soup. As I finished writing the story, it disappeared from my computer screen! In view of the late hour I thought I'd rewrite it later. Here's the story:

Midway through our week long vacation last month, we moved camp from South Lake Tahoe to the Blue Lakes in Eldorado National Forest. We had planned to join my sister and family for their annual camping trip to Upper Blue Lake. The lake has been a favorite for the last four years.

This trip was special because our mother joined us at the lake along with a brother. We planned to arrive at the campground a day early. I used the time to set up our camp and secure a campsite on the waterfront for them.

A large pot of split pea soup factored in as well. Long before our father's death in October 2007, mom and dad often enjoyed a hot bowl of soup in the evening. Mom frequently built a brothy soup around a chicken breast or small piece of meat and vegetables.

I thought mom would enjoy the ham enriched soup for her first dinner in camp. The soup would contribute a hot accompaniment to dinner and allow time to set camp up.

To start the soup, I lit the campfire around 11 a.m. The split peas, ham shank, aromatic vegetables and herbs went into a 10-inch Dutch oven with chicken broth. It took three pot hooks to suspend the pot over the fire.

The soup came to a roaring boil just after noon. I removed one pot hook to reduce the amount of heat under the Dutch oven. The soup gently simmered for the next three hours. All I had to do was feed the fire and occasionally stir the pot.

In my work kitchen I can prepare a wonderful bowl of split pea soup in two hours. Prepare the same soup at the 8,000-foot elevation mark and you must have patience. Cooking any dried peas or beans in camp at high altitude adds an additional hour or two to the cooking process.

A simmering pot of split pea soup is the perfect meal for a lazy afternoon in camp. You need to remain close to the pot to tend the campfire, stir the pot and cut the meat from the ham bone.

My sister and brother-in-law pulled up to the lake around 1:30 p.m. The truck was unloaded and two tents set up in two hours. We were ready to eat by 4 p.m.

Blue Lakes split pea soup

BLUE LAKES SPLIT PEA SOUP WITH HAM SHANK

At the 8,136-foot elevation of Upper Blue Lake, it takes twice as long to cook the soup as it does at sea level. You need three to four hours to cook the peas into a thick soup. I took the photograph at the three-hour point.

1 pound green split peas
5 cups low sodium chicken stock
1 ham shank (about 8 ounces)
1 yellow onion, small dice
1 medium carrot, small dice
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon dried thyme
Salt and ground black pepper, to taste

Wash and sort peas. Add to a 10-inch Dutch oven. Pour in stock and add ham shank, onion, carrot, bay leaves and thyme. Place Dutch oven over fire and heat to boiling. Adjust heat and simmer, covered, 1-1/2 to 3 hours or until peas are soft (depends on altitude). Remove bone and cut off meat and dice. Return meat to soup. Season with salt and pepper.

Chicken rice soup with roasted tomatoes and kidney beans

Here's a quick soup that I prepared at work this morning:

I diced 3 grilled chicken breasts, then added 2 cups cooked rice, 1 (30-oz) can drained & rinced kidney beans, 6 stalks broccoli (chopped), 1 (8-oz) can tomato sauce and dried thyme to 2 quarts chicken stock. After bring the soup to a simmer, I added 6 roasted tomatoes (cut into 6ths).

Makes about 3 quarts.

Sent from my Samsung Captivate(tm) on AT&T

Pinto bean soup with roasted tomatoes

I first prepared Pinto Bean Soup with Roasted Tomatoes 10 years ago for an article on Suite101.com. I drove up the Mormon Immigrant Trail in Eldorado National Forest to Pebble Canyon Road and found a spot to cook.

With Mick Martin's Blues Party blaring on the car radio, I worked my way through the recipe, took photographs for the article and enjoyed the clean air of the forest. In the next hour and one-half, I roasted three tomatoes with an onion and garlic in a 12-inch deep Dutch oven, a task that took twice the time in the confined space of the cast iron oven.

As the vegetables roasted, moisture sweated into the oven. Juices dancing about the bottom of the hot oven. Rich tomato juices commingled with moisture from the onion and garlic. Flavors intensified as the natural sugars caramelized. Around 45 minutes later, the roasted tomatoes were ready for the soup. The soup came together quickly once the tomatoes, onions and garlic took on a rich yellow-brown color.

I poured chicken broth, canned pinto beans, chili powder, cilantro and lemon juice into the Dutch oven and finished the soup. The flavor of roasted tomatoes was much deeper and more intense than fresh or canned tomatoes. Onions and garlic become rich, sweet and slightly smoky when roasted apart from tomatoes.

Pinto Bean Soup with Roasted Tomatoes is a great pantry soup. I prepared it at work today with ingredients that I typically stock in the storeroom and refrigerator. Kidney beans stood in for pinto beans in today's soup. Otherwise, I prepared the recipe as it's published.

Enjoy!

PINTO BEAN SOUP WITH ROASTED TOMATOES

Kidney or red beans work for this recipe as well. Use a quality brand of chili powder and adjust the amount to suit your tolerance for heat. Start with the suggested amount and taste the soup while it simmers. If it's not spicy enough, add more chili powder and re-taste.

6 tomatoes, stemmed, cut into eighths
2 onions, peeled, cut into eighths
8 garlic cloves, whole, peeled
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup chili powder (medium heat)
2 quarts chicken stock
2 quarts pinto beans, cooked or canned, drained and rinsed
1/2 cup cilantro leaves, minced
1/4 cup lemon juice Kosher salt, to taste Garnish
1 pint corn tortilla strips, fried, or tortilla chips
3/4 cup sour cream
1/2 cup chopped cilantro, green onions or chives

Toss tomatoes, onions and garlic with oil in a bowl. Spread a half-sized sheet pan and roast in 475-degree convection oven until tender and beginning to brown, about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Turn tomato mixture into large pot and mash to break up tomatoes. Add chicken broth, beans and 1/2 cup of the cilantro. Heat to boiling, then reduce to simmer, cover and simmer for 20 minutes. Mash coarsely with potato masher or immersible blender.

Add lemon juice and salt and season to taste with additional salt and pepper. Top each serving with tortilla strips or chips, sour cream and cilantro.

Serves 12 (10-ounce) or 15 (8-ounce) portions.

Adapted from a Idaho Bean Commission recipe.

Roasted butternut squash soup

Sharing culinary ideas is one of the benefits of regularly meeting with other chefs. From the moment I walked in the Canby Grove Camp and Conference Center kitchen and met chefs Ira Krizo and Bob Vannigan, we talked shop. We enjoyed an informal chef's roundtable, especially after chef Leo Griego walked in.

Our main task was to prep for Monday night's dinner and lunch on Tuesday. Bob was removing pork tenderloins from a smoking skillet as I walked in the door. And Ira sauteed onions and mushrooms for his wonderful lobster strudel appetizer.

I quickly jumped in and cut vegetables for a roasted vegetable salad with black quinoa. The morning progressed as we moved from task to task. We talked about our jobs, challenges and asked questions of each other.

After we finished with Monday's prep, Ira handed us a case of butternut squash. I already knew that Ira's Roasted Butternut Squash Soup would be one of the takeaways from the conference as he had attached the recipe to the conference agenda.

After we cubed the squash, Ira tossed it with chopped white onion, sliced garlic, olive oil, salt, black pepper and Italian herbs. The two sheetpans of squash roasted in the convection oven for around 30 minutes.

Once the squash had achieved a deep brown color, Ira chilled the squash. The soup was finished on Tuesday in the hour before lunch.

The roasted garlic danced stood out when I sampled a bowl at lunch on Tuesday. The soup impressed me so much that I prepared it for the residents at work on Friday.

Chef Ira offer these modifications for Roasted Butternut Squash Soup:

• If the soup tastes raw, either the squash wasn't ripe or the baking time was insufficient. Simmer until creamy before adding the heavy cream.
• If you don't have chicken stock or wish to make a vegetarian soup, exchange the chicken stock with water or vegetable broth.
• Try different types of winter squashes for different flavors and textures.
• For a more pronounced herb flavor, use fresh herbs instead of dried. Oregano, sage, thyme and a little rosemary all work very well.
• A sweet and spiced soup is created by replacing the herbs with ginger (chopped or granulated) and molasses.
• Try different garnishing alternatives by using one or two of the following: toasted pine nuts, pumpkin seeds, fresh chopped herbs, creme fraiche or even croutons.
• The soup can also be served chilled on a hot summer day.

ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP

The recipe is adapted the one Chef Ira handed out during the conference.

10 pounds butternut squash (around 2 large squash)
1/4 cup olive oil
2 white onions, diced small
6 tablespoons minced garlic
6 tablespoons dried thyme
3 quarts chicken stock
kosher salt, to taste
ground black pepper, to taste
3 cups heavy cream

Peel, seed and dice squash into 1/2-inch cubes. Toss squash, onion, garlic and thyme in olive oil.

Spread squash mixture onto 1 full-sized sheet pan or 2 half-sized sheet pans. Roast in a 450-deg. oven for about 35 minutes, stirring every 10 to 15 minutes. When finished, squash will be thoroughly cooked and golden brown all over.

Puree squash in a blender or food processor, adding chicken stock until desired consistency is achieved. Soup should have the consistency of heavy cream.

Place mixture in a sauce pan and season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer, stir in cream and return to a simmer. Serve hot.

Yield is approximately 6 quarts. Serves 25 (8-ounce) portions.

Potato and roasted red pepper tortilla soup

I have developed five or six signature soups for the meal program at work. While I serve soup every day with the noon meal, the familiar flavor of these soups add a level of comfort to the clients, many of which are dealing with a lot of issues in their recovery.

Even when I throw of quick soup of leftovers together, the connoisseurs in the house quickly return accolades to the kitchen. The comfort of a hot bowl of soup adds a level of security to many residents.

"I've always enjoyed your soup," volunteered a resident just after the Thanksgiving Day holiday. "I get up about 5 o'clock and go out back with a cup of coffee and your soup -- those are my two joys!"

Every so often I hit the Mother Lode with the noontime soup. Two weeks ago I morphed the menued pepper pot soup into a spicy potato and roasted red pepper soup. Thickened with corn tortillas and finished with tempered sour cream, the infusion of mild roasted red peppers and hot jalapeno chilies gave the soup a unique character.

After lunch, several residents noted that the soup was the "best ever." I now plan to menu the soup every two weeks. Next to house classics, like split pea and clam chowder, this slightly spicy version of classic pepper pot soup will please residents.

"I love having soup before I go to school," said a resident as she left the house on a rainy winter day. "It keeps me warm."

POTATO AND ROASTED RED PEPPER TORTILLA SOUP

4 ounces butter
1 pound diced onion
8 ounces diced carrot
8 ounces diced celery
2 jalapeno peppers, minced
1 tablespoon minced garlic
2-1/2 quarts chicken stock
1-1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
3 bay leaves
2 pounds potatoes, diced
12 ounces roasted red peppers
9 corn tortillas, cut into strips
2 cups sour cream

Saute onion, carrot, celery and jalapeno in butter until lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Add garlic in the last two minutes, being careful not to scorch it.

Combine stock, herbs, potatoes, red peppers and sauteed vegetables. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Simmer for 30 minutes to develop flavor. Add corn tortillas to broth and cook for additional 5 minutes. The tortillas should completely dissolve in the soup.

Temper sour cream by slowly whisking about 2 cups of hot soup into the sour cream. Pour sour cream mixture into soup and stir to combine. Check seasoning.

Yield 1 gallon. Serves 20 (6-ounce) or 15 (8-ounce portions).

Southwest tortilla soup

Over the weekend, my wife in formed me her Tuesday lady’s Bible study was hosting a potluck lunch after class. Since I cook a lot of the meals at home, I used the opportunity to test a new recipe.

I found the original recipe in the article, "Some Like it HOT," in the September 2010 issue of Food Management. While the trade magazine’s pages are mostly devoted to managing large on-site dining operations, I enjoy reading the monthly recipe spreads. Several soups with a south-of-the-border flare caught my eye.

As often happens, the picture that accompanied the recipe for southwest tortilla soup first attracted my attention. The deep green pureed soup drew my attention because it resembled other soups that I often prepare at work (like split pea and cream of zucchini with basil).

I restructured the recipe to accommodate the ingredients that I had on hand at home. The original recipe didn’t include tomatillos. I thought that the addition of the common chili verde ingredient would add a nice bright flavor to the soup.

I also toned down the spice level by eliminating the red habanero and jalapeño chilies. I figured this would be a welcomed adjustment since many of the ladies in the Bible study are older. The milder poblano and canned Anaheim chilies would impart distinct flavor notes while reigning in the spice level.

I also plan on introducing southwest tortilla soup at work in the next week. Other than multiplying the recipe by a factor of four or five, I won’t change anything.

SOUTHWEST TORTILLA SOUP

Smoked paprika will add a smokey flavor to the soup.

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/2 sweet onion, quartered
4 garlic cloves
1 poblano chili, sliced
2 roma tomatoes, quartered
1 (7-ounce) can diced green chilies
1 (12-ounce) can tomatillos, cut in half
1 tablespoon cilantro
2 teaspoons paprika
1 teaspoon cumin
2 cups chicken stock
2 (6-inch) corn tortillas
Salt and pepper to taste
Pepper jack cheese, shredded
Cilantro leaves for garnish

In stockpot or Dutch oven, saute onion, garlic, poblano and tomato in hot oil. After onions begin to caramelize, add cilantro, paprika and cumin. Cook for two minutes. Add canned chilies, tomatillos and stock.

Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Simmer for 30 minutes to develop flavors. Add corn tortillas to broth and let cook for additional 5 minutes. The tortillas should completely dissolve in the stock.

Remove from heat and puree soup mixture until smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with pepper jack cheese and cilantro leaves. Serves 4 (1-cup) portions.

Texas caviar soup

I'm not sure where I first got the idea for a pureed black-eyed pea soup with salsa fresca.

While I may have copied another chef's creation off of a TV food show like Guy Fieri's Diners, Drive Ins and Dives, I like to believe that the soup is my own creation. But I doubt that's true.

Texas caviar is the inspiration for my rendition of the spicy soup. Instead of marinating black-eyed peas in a zesty vinaigrette with red onion, celery, sweet bell pepper and garlic, I separated the dish into its basic components -- beans and salsa.

The soup was a hit with the residents at work. The addition of chipoltle peppers gave the pureed bean soup a smooth smokey feel it it.

The star of the dish was a fresh salsa garnish. While most residents enjoy a more traditional tomato salsa with roasted tomatoes, onion, garlic and jalapeno chilies, chopped fine in the food processor, this salsa is a bit chunkier.

TEXAS CAVIAR SOUP

This recipe uses the "hot soak" method of cooking black-eyed peas that's recommended by the California Dry Bean Board.

Soup:
2 pounds black-eyed peas
3 quarts chicken or vegetable stock
3 chipotle peppers with adobo sauce, minced
2 tablespoons chili powder
1 tablespoon cumin
2 teaspoons coriander
2 teaspoons granulated garlic
Salt and pepper, to taste

Salsa:
4 medium tomatoes, diced
1 medium onion, diced
2 jalapeno chilies, seeded and minced
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1-1/2 tablespoons cilantro, chopped
Salt & pepper, to taste

Place black-eyed peas a heavy 8-quart stockpot or Dutch oven and cover with sufficient water. Boil for 3 to 4 minutes. Discard water.

Add 3 quarts chicken or vegetable stock, chipoltes, chili powder, cumin, coriander and granulated garlic to peas. Bring mixture to a boil, cover, reduce heat and simmer for 45 minutes or until peas are tender.

Meanwhile, make salsa. Combine tomatoes, onion, chilies, garlic, lemon juice and cilantro in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

Puree black-eyed peas with cooking liquid in food processor or blender until smooth. Thin with a little water or stock if puree is too thick. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Return puree to stockpot and keep warm over low heat.

To serve, ladle 8-ounces soup into each bowl. Spoon 1 or 2 tablespoons salsa on soup. Dizzle with hot chili oil if desired.

Makes about 1 gallon.

Turkey stock

While I don't run a pure scratch kitchen, I find it hard to let two turkey carcasses go to waste.

A simmering stockpot is the perfect destination for the leftover bones, which I often freeze after serving a turkey dinner.

Turkey stock gives me a chance to return to my culinary roots, to a day when military cooks made the entire meal from scratch. There was no other way.

Even as "convenience food" crept into Navy food service, most galleys continued to scratch-cook most entrees, side dishes and baked items.

We rarely made stock, especially at sea. As the supply of bones diminished, it became increasingly impractical. Plus, dedicating one steal-jacketed kettle on small ships was impractical.

By the time I discharged from active duty in 1979, boneless meats (including raw white and dark meat turkey rolls) had replaced bone-in cuts in the supply system. Commercially available chicken and beef base had replaced the stockpot.

I was thrilled by the opportunity to produce a two-gallon batch of turkey stock each month. Stock production gives me a chance to teach stock-production to residents that enjoy cooking.

TURKEY STOCK FOR A CREW

Add appropriate kitchen scraps to the stockpot. This is a good way to use onion peels, parsley stems, celery tops and tomato ends. Save for the two or three days leading to stock production.

2 turkey carcasses, about 12 to 14 pounds
2 large onions, roughly chopped
6 ribs celery, roughly chopped
4 carrots, roughly chopped
3 bay leaves
3-4 garlic cloves
1 teaspoon peppercorns
Water to cover

Break up carcass and place in 16- to 20-quart stockpot. Add remaining ingredients. Cover with cold water.

Bring to a boil over heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 3 to 4 hours, skimming occasionally, until turkey flavor comes through in the stock.

Strain through a fine mesh strainer into large container. Cool in ice water bath until the internal temperature of stock drops to 41 degrees or less. Refrigerate or freeze in desired amounts.

Yield varies, but you should realize 1-1/2 to 2 gallons.