Shallow vs. deep camp oven

Chef Steven with three shallow
and two deep camp ovens at
Leonard "Wagon Cook" Sanders'
50th birthday celebration in Oroville,
California, December 2002.

Selecting the right pan or pot is as much a science as cooking the meal itself. Capacity and shape are important features to consider when selecting a cast iron Dutch oven. Each  plays an important role in how the dish cooks in the pot. Cast iron ensures even cooking, slow transfer of heat to the product and heat retention in the pot. And its well-developed patina helps the cooking surface resist sticking.

The question being asked here is whether you will use a regular or shallow Dutch oven or a deep model? The popular manufacturers cast Dutch ovens in both sizes. Lodge Manufacturing, for instance, produces a line regular and deep camp ovens in 10-, 12- and 14-inch diameter pots.

The Lodge deep 10-inch camp oven holds one additional quart of volume and is five-eighths-inch deeper than the shallower model. The Lodge deep 12- and 14-inch camp ovens each hold an extra two quarts and are one and one-quarter inch deeper. The deeper ovens feature a narrower base.

Camp Chef also manufactures a line of deep camp ovens in 10- and 12-inch diameters. Their camp ovens are made to similar specifications used by Lodge. Lodge uses the term “camp oven” to differentiate ovens made for outdoor cooking from home-style Dutch ovens.

The added height and capacity of the deeper camp ovens provides extra headroom. This lets the outdoor cook prepare fit larger roasts and poultry into the Dutch oven without being cut into smaller pieces. Deep ovens are also useful for bread baking, stewing and frying.

When considering the type of Dutch oven to use, look at the pan or pot you’d use for a recipe inside the home kitchen. You want to select the Dutch oven that best fits that profile. For instance, a layered dish, like lasagna, works best inside the wide, flat confines of a regular oven while a rib roast can only fit in a deeper oven.

The regular or shallow camp oven is best used for any recipe that benefits from the shallow pan with a wide base. Use for rolls, biscuits, cookies and cakes; casseroles, lasagna and other layered dishes; small cuts of meat, fish and poultry; etc. The wide base also makes a better skillet than the narrow base of the deep camp oven.

Cakes are best baked in a regular Dutch oven. The shallow oven and wide base more closely mimics the shape and size of a standard round aluminum cake pan. This allows for even baking while maintaining moderate depth in the cake.

As explained above, the deep camp oven is best when you need extra depth for large cuts of meat and poultry, loaves of bread, or any dish where you want the extra headroom. The also make good bean pots. The narrow base lets you concentrate heat and moisture around pieces of meat and vegetables, thus minimizing the likelihood of the dish drying out. Use the deep oven for stews and soups as well.

For meat and poultry, the size of the piece determines the oven to use. A whole chicken, for instance, requires a deep oven because of its size and structure while several smaller Cornish hens should neatly fit inside a regular oven. Cut-up chicken (individual pieces or quarters) works best in a regular oven where the wide base and shallow headroom allow for even heat distribution and cooking.

Next time you want to cook in a Dutch oven, consider whether a shallow or deep oven is best for the dish. While it's possible to interchange these ovens (as I have done many times), consider the advantages of each oven. The deep camp oven is best reserved for dishes that neatly fit inside its deep profile. The same hold true for the shallow oven.

Throwback Thursday: My first recipe on the blog

Beginning today, I intend to re-post articles from the early days of 'Round the Chuckbox each Thursday. My goal is to give new life into some of my early articles. I will fix broken links and take care of spelling and bad grammar. Otherwise, I'll leave the article as originally written. 

The recipe for chuckwagon chili was first posted on February 5, 2005. It was my first recipe and second article to the blog. 

My daughter, son-in-law and granddaughter are over for the weekend. Since it’s their first trip up from the Bay Area since the wedding, we’re having a few friends over this afternoon. I though a simple chili, cooked in one of my 14-inch Dutch ovens over the camp stove would hit the spot.

Traditional red chili is defined by the International Chili Society as any kind of meat or combination of meats, cooked with red chili peppers, various spices and other ingredients, with the exception of beans and pasta, which are strictly forbidden. Traditions aside, beans have a nice way of rounding a hot bowl of red. Besides, the cowboys ate beans by the bowl. Add 4 (14-ounce) cans of pinto or red beans at the second spice dump.

If you're so inclined, use a mixture of beef base diluted with beer instead of water. Make sure that you use Grandma's or Gephardt's chili powder, not a generic brand.

CHUCKWAGON CHILI

6 pounds round steak, coarsely ground
1/2 cup olive oil
3 ounces chili powder
6 tablespoons ground cumin
6 clove garlic, minced
2 medium red onion -- chopped
6 dried ancho peppers, remove stems and seeds and boil 30 min in water
1 tablespoon dried oregano
2 tablespoons paprika
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
3 cups beef broth
1 (4-ounce) diced green chiles
12 ounces crushed tomatoes
Hot pepper sauce, to taste

Brown meat in olive oil in a 6-quart Dutch oven over medium heat. Drain excess fat; add chili powder, cumin, garlic and chopped onions. Simmer over low heat 30-45 minutes using as little liquid as possible. Add beef stock only as necessary. Stir often.

Remove skins from boiled pods, mash pulp and add to meat mixture. Add oregano, paprika, vinegar, 2 cups beef broth, chiles, stewed tomatoes and hot pepper sauce. Simmer 30-45 minutes. Stir often. Adjust seasoning. Serve with fresh bread. Makes about 1 gallon or 12 (1-1/3 cup) servings.

Traditional chili garnishes -- diced onions, grated sharp cheddar cheese and chopped cilantro -- compliment this dish well.

This recipe is adapted from the October 2004 issue of Food Management. Chef Joe Eidem of the Washoe (Reno, Nevada) Health System serves his chuckwagon chili in the hospital’s cafeteria.

1,500 posts on 'Round the Chuckbox

The 1,500th post on 'Round the Chuckbox nearly slipped away without notice! My picture of the US Foods truck arriving at Oakland Feather River Camp that was posted Monday takes the honor. Though a random picture, it represents my post-retirement career as a summer camp chef.

While I enjoy the long hours and seemingly chaotic atmosphere of the commercial kitchen, laboring in the outdoor camp kitchen has been my true love for decades. I share a common interest in outdoor cooking with the readers of 'Round the Chuckbox. Together we enjoy cooking in cast iron Dutch ovens, grilling over a campfire and smoking in the barbecue.

When I look back at the articles I posted while away from home this summer, those that relate to outdoor cooking were the best performers. Of the 36 pieces between late-April and mid-August, two standout. This means they performed significantly better than the thirty or so articles on cooking in the camp kitchen.

It seems readership declines whenever I shift focus from outdoor cooking to my work as a camp chef. The statistics show more readers would rather read my thoughts on locating the massive Lodge 20-inch skillet last April than to view a picture of my baked apple pancake. These two were the best and worst performing posts of the spring and summer.

The second highest performing blog of the season was a series of images of a Dutch oven cookout last May. And the two Dutch oven recipes that I've posted since returning home (baked orange French toast and layered cabbage and potatoes with bacon) are above the others.

Not everyone goes away when I place emphasis on cooking for large numbers of campers. 'Round the Chuckbox draws readers from those interested in cooking for groups as well as outdoor cooks. But the pool of those interested in outdoor cooking seems to be somewhat larger than the group of quantity cooking enthusiasts.

I plan to continue posting articles on cooking for groups and outdoor cooking. As I see it, both types of cooking fit within my calling as a camp cook. Since many folks enjoy reading Dutch oven articles, the focus for the fall and winter will be towards outdoor cooking. While I may post one or two more articles from Oakland Camp this summer, I'm ready to put the modest cast iron collection to work.

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Click here to see what I had to say when I posted my 1,000th blog article. "As long as I'm able to cook and write," I said on February 5, 2010, "I trust that you'll continue to find the blog interesting. Please drop a note. I always enjoy hearing from my viewers."

The truck, the truck

The US Foods truck negotiates a sharp turn as it moves from the main entrance to the upper road at Oakland Feather River Camp last July. The big three purveyors (US Foods, ProPacific Fresh and Sysco) generally sent medium-sized tractor-trailer combinations to the camp, which is located inside the Spanish Creek canyon, five miles north of Quincy, California. Due to the size of the trucks and awkwardness of the dock, drivers parked on the delivery road and moved product into the kitchen with pallet jack and hand truck.

Chuckwagon videos

Here's a YouTube videos series on the history of the chuckwagon. It also includes the basics of Dutch oven cooking at the wagon. The gentleman is well-spoken. He gives interesting detail on Nineteenth Century cattle drives and the chuckwagon, cook and Dutch oven. I believe the videos were filmed at the Oak Grove Cowboy Weekend in Michigan.

Baked orange French toast

The Stanley Ranch Cook Book is one my favorite sources for inspiration and recipes. It’s hosted by the Stanley Ranch in Fossil, Oregon. Many recipes seem to the contribution of the unnamed ranch cook. (Edit: The cookbook is no longer available on-line).

The recipe for baked orange French toast caught my eye while pursuing side dishes last week. This recipe is the contribution of by Marlene Stanley, who owns the ranch with husband her Rick. Once I prepared my rendition for camp in a Dutch oven, I discovered the subtle orange flavor throughout. It doesn't overwhelm. Instead, the orange juice and zest give the breakfast dish wonderful balance between traditional French toast and the orange flavor.

BAKED ORANGE FRENCH TOAST

Eliminate the pecans to make the recipe nut free. Marlene Stanley’s version called for 2/3-cup orange juice and 1/3-cup orange liqueur. Since I generally don’t purchase liqueurs, I used a full cup of juice. I’m certain the liqueur will give the French toast an even richer flavor.

12 ounces day old French bread, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 cup toasted pecan pieces (see recipe below)
6 large eggs
1 cup half and half
1 cup orange juice
1 tablespoon orange zest
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/4 cup melted butter

Place bread cubes in a lightly greased 9- or 10-inch round cake pan. Spread pecans evenly over bread. Whisk eggs, half and half, orange juice, orange zest and sugar together in a medium bowl. Pour batter evenly over the bread. Push bread down into the batter.

Cover and place in refrigerator or ice cooler. Refrigerate at least four hours or overnight if being served for breakfast. In the morning, take the pan out of the refrigerator or ice cooler. Light 28 charcoal briquettes. Meanwhile, pour melted butter evenly over bread.

When coals are barely covered with ash, pre-heat a 12-inch Dutch oven with 8 coals underneath and 20 on the lid. (Alternatively, pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees F.; bake in oven as directed.) Remove lid and place the pan inside the Dutch oven. Replace the lid and bake 40 minutes, until French toast is set and puffed up.

Remove pan from Dutch oven. Cool 10 minutes. Cut into 8 wedges. Offer 1 or 2 wedges to each person. Serve with syrup. Marlene Stanley recommends serving a sauce of melted butter and marmalade on the side.

TOASTED PECANS

Toasting brings out the wonderfully nutty flavor of the pecan. Remove from the heat as soon as you smell wonderfully nutty aroma of the nuts. Stop the cooking by placing the nuts in a small bowl.

1 cup chopped pecans (approximately 2-1/4 ounces)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter

Melt butter in a small heavy skillet over medium heat. Add pecans and toss to coat with butter. Toast, stirring frequently, until lightly toasted, about 5 to 8 minutes. Do not brown. Remove from heat and use as directed.

Best in class?

Last week we visited the Plumas-Sierra County Fair in Quincy, California. Our last day at Oakland Feather River Camp was Saturday, August 16. Since one of our daughters was coming up to visit a friend, Debbie and I elected to delay our homecoming so we could visit. After worship on Sunday, we walked around, enjoyed the exhibits and let our granddaughter visit the midway.

The mold on a number of pie entries to the baked goods and confections competition stuck me as odd. I understand when you consider entries were turned in and judged on Wednesday, opening day of the fair. What once appealed, was ready for the trash. Unfortunately, I didn't see how this pie placed in the competition.

A culinary car for the El Dorado Western Railroad?

The El Dorado Western Railway Foundation purchased this tool car from the Richmond Pacific Railroad in December 2011. It has intrigued me since then. I've often talked about converting it into a culinary car for the El Dorado Western Railroad, which operates on eight miles of the old Southern Pacific Placerville Branch rail line between Shingle Springs and Diamond Springs.

It's a natural desire in my informal role as the the railroad chef. Several times each year, I host a track-side meal for railroad volunteers. My last such meal occurred in November last year, when I prepared pork chili with guajillo chili adobo, cheesy butter milk biscuits and berry cobbler for the bridge crew. My hope is that my winter schedule will allow me to cook for the crew more frequently during my home season.

A dedicated culinary car would improve conditions for cooking on the railroad. I'm not saying that the complete car has to be remodeled into a galley on wheels. There's plenty of room for rail tools and equipment on the starboard side. It would give me a mobile platform to transport the two-burner stove, ice chest, Dutch ovens and utensils.

I could easily work with the port side of the tool car. That's the side with the shallow tool box. The side with the deeper tool cabinet can be used by the maintenance crew. The pictures describe how I intend put this plan into action.

This is the port side of the Richmond Pacific Railroad tool car. Of two tool cabinets, this one reaches about two-thirds of the way across the deck. The open space leaves sufficient room to mount a two-burner Camp Chef propane stove. The ice chest can be set in the center space for transport. The center section would then be used as a Dutch oven table. This would keep burning coals off the ground when at the work site. 

This is the starboard side of the tool car. There is enough space to mount a small generator, air compressor or water tank. The tool cabinet can be used to secure tools and equipment.

The A end of the tool car. This is the forward end. It will normally be the end that is coupled to the gang car, locomotive or trackmobile. 

The B end of the tool car. There is plenty of storage space on top of the tool cabinet, plus room to hang hoses, chains and other large tools.

Cabbage and potatoes with bacon

Debbie and I returned home after four months away. This included a quick trip to Oregon, where I located a rare Lodge 20-inch skillet. After visiting Debbie's sister and husband on the Oregon coast, we made our way to Quincy, California, where I was the chef for Oakland Feather River Camp for the next three and one-half months.

I hauled two 12-inch Dutch ovens to the camp, along with three large skillets. Twice during the pre-camp session I showed the cooks how to cook in cast iron Dutch ovens. Once camp ramped up in early June, long days and large numbers of hungry campers eliminated the opportunity for any Dutch oven cooking.

Serving  from 100 to over 300 campers three times each day is rewarding in itself. But I missed the chance to cook in cast iron. While we occasionally used the skillets in the kitchen, the Dutch ovens lacked the capacity to feed the crowds. I knew I'd have to wait until we came home to get back to cast iron cooking.

Layered cabbage and potatoes with bacon made a great welcome home dish. As a one-pot meal, it was relatively easy to prepare. And it has a great flavor. The marriage of two of my favorite vegetables makes for a succulent meal.

Enjoy ...

LAYERED CABBAGE AND POTATOES WITH BACON

Sufficient liquid should be released from the cabbage to keep the dish moist. If the cabbage and potatoes are dry during baking, add 2 to 4 tablespoons water or chicken stock to the dish. When served, you should see a light coating of delicious liquor on the bottom surface of the Dutch oven.

Feel free to substitute your favorite sausage (sliced) for the bacon. Or to add a second layer of bacon, boost it to 12 or 16 ounces and spread half over each layer of cabbage.

8 ounces bacon, diced
2 medium onions, thinly sliced
1-1/2 pounds green cabbage, shredded
3 pounds red or gold potatoes, sliced 1/4-inch thick
Salt and pepper, to taste

In a 12-inch Dutch oven over medium high heat, cook bacon until crisp. Remove to plate. Pour off most of the rendered fat, leaving about 3 tablespoons.

Add onion and cabbage. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Sauté, stirring frequently, until it’s just beginning to brown and the volume of cabbage is reduced by one-third. If necessary, add an additional tablespoon or two bacon fat to keep cabbage moist. Remove to separate plate or bowl.

Layer potatoes, cabbage mixture and bacon, lightly seasoning each layer with salt and pepper. Place 1/3 potatoes on bottom of Dutch oven. Spread 1/2 cabbage mixture over potatoes, then spread all of the bacon over the cabbage. Place another third of the potatoes over the cabbage and bacon layer. Layer of remaining cabbage over potatoes. Place remaining potatoes over the cabbage.

Place lid on Dutch oven. Add coals for 375 to 400 degrees, approximately 8 under the oven and 20 on the lid. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes, until the potatoes are tender and they are beginning to brown.

As an entrée, cabbage and potatoes serves 6 hearty eaters. It serves up to 12 as a side dish.

Rain

Last Tuesday the Quincy, California, area received a full day of rain. I didn't realize that I had earlier moved my Dutch ovens from the camp kitchen to the cabin. They seem to have weathered the storm with little rust. I'll clean and re-season the two 12-inch camp ovens once Debbie and I arrive home.

Herb garden results

I transported a new herb garden to camp with good intentions. I thought it could supply a portion of the fresh herbs for the camp kitchen. Yet with little free time in the evening to tend the garden, I barely kept up with watering. Instead, the container garden served as an element of the "front yard" outside our cabin door.

My herb garden weathered the Sierra Nevada well. It will soon return to our Diamond Springs,California, home, where I plan to use the produce for home and camping. All the plants save one (the camellia plant) survived. The chive, rosemary, sage, tarragon and thyme are growing strong. I will soon add basil.

While I believe my idea to grow herbs for the camp kitchen had merit, the garden never produced amounts needed for large quantities of food. Next year I will continue to purchase fresh herbs from our produce purveyor. In addition to cilantro and parsley (curry and flat leaf), the cooks use fresh basil, mint and thyme. Dried herbs stand in for the other herbs.

Sage awaits wonderful fall cuisine when Debbie and I arrive home late next week.

Arroz con pollo

It may not be the prettiest dish that we serve at Oakland Feather River Camp. But arroz con pollo is packed with flavor (the link takes you to my Dutch oven version). Two weeks ago, five 12 by 20 by 2-1/2-inch pans fed 135 campers and staff at the family camp. Simmered black beans, succotash with kale and chocolate bread pudding rounded the menu.

Lots of hummus

Until yesterday, I had only prepared two quarts of hummus at one time. Now my personal record is somewhere around five gallons! The Cuisinart food processor labored for over one hour to turn six #10 cans of chickpeas into the wonderful spread. When I completed the task, one quart olive oil, one quart lemon juice, three pounds tahini, one cup minced garlic and salt and pepper joined the chickpeas.

Oakland Feather Rover Camp featured a Middle Eastern menu for a private camp on Saturday. The two-hour lunch included pita bread, hummus bi tahini, tabbouleh and tuna salad, plus a large salad bar. We will serve the remaining hummus throughout the week on the salad bar.

Chicken Tex-Mex casserole production center

Tex-Mex chicken layered casserole (and here) is on the menu tonight for a private rental group at the camp. The four 12 by 20 by 2-1/2-inch hotel pans will feed around 75 to 100 persons. I cut the pans four by six after it comes out of the oven.

In addition to the meat version, I prepared a vegetarian casserole with cheddar cheese and a black bean layered casserole for vegans. The alternative casseroles (off camera) were prepared in half pans. These two pans are gluten free.

Morning coffee

Enjoying a morning mug of Joe in the kitchen!

Roast eye of round at camp

I menu roast beef at Oakland Feather River Camp every week or two. I have been using the eye of round (IMPS/NAMP 171C) for five years now. It can usually be purchased at a reasonable price, slightly above $3 per pound when purchased in a 54-pound case. Each case holds six to eight individual roasts.

You can also purchase the eye of round at the local cash and carry restaurant supply house. I purchased it at Cash and Carry on Richards Boulevard, Sacramento, California, when I worked in midtown Sacramento. The store currently sells the roast for $3.22 per pound for a five-pound average roast.

I like the roast because it cooks quickly and gives a reasonably tender serving to the camper. The cylindrical shape of the roast yields a consistently round serving when sliced on the meat slicer. I don't use a recipe for the roast, but will describe my process:

1. Trim fat and silver skin on the roast. I generally leave a quarter-inch of fat on each roast.
2. Rub each roast with a light coat of canola oil. Then rub kosher salt, coarse ground and granulated garlic.Place in roasting pan.
3. Brown roasts in pre-heated 450-degree convection oven until browned, 20 to 25 minutes.
4. Pull pan from oven and reduce oven setting to 200 degrees. Turn roasts over. Add a bit of water or stock to pan if the drippings have dried.
5. Cover pan and return to the oven. Roast until roasts reach desired temperature. At camp I pull them when the internal temperature reaches 145 to 150 degrees. This gives you a nice, evenly colored roast.
6. Rest meat 10 to 15 minutes. Slice on meat slicer to desired thickness. I prefer it on the thinner side. This lets campers take as many slices as they desire without impacting portion control. Each six to seven-pound roast yields 20 to 25 (4-ounce) servings at Oakland Camp.
7. Prepare gravy or au jus as desired from the drippings.

I find that it's best to slice the roast using a meat slicer. The slicer gives you consistently sized pieces. It also helps maximize the slices from each roast. 

Horse ridin' chef

Please do not think that I'm a seasoned horseman as I guide Samsonite into the corral. I just appear to know what I'm doing. I spent a good part of the hour-long ride trying to convince him that I'm the chef and he's the horse. Yet, Samsonite is a good steed. I look forward to riding him again before Debbie and I leave for home next month.

Mexican rice on the griddle

Earlier this week my sous chef and I wanted to use up two pans of leftover rice. In order to re-purpose the rice into a new dish, I prepared a sauce from canned tomatoes, poblano chilies, onion and garlic. The rice was poured onto a oiled griddle and stirred several times. I then folded the sauce into the rice and brought it up to temperature.

The rice looked just like Mexican restaurant rice. It even had one or two obligatory pieces of tomato in the mixture! Here's our new process for cooking Mexican rice at Oakland Feather River Camp:

1. Combine 2 quarts white or brown rice with 4 quarts chicken or vegetable stock in a 12x20x4-inch hotel pan. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and lid. Two pans of rice will feed around 100 campers at Oakland Camp.
2. Bake in a 325-degree convection oven until tender. White rice takes 20 to 30 minutes. You need 45 to 50 minutes for brown rice. 
3. Cool rice overnight in the walk-in refrigerator.
4. Pre-heat griddle to 350 degrees.
5. Saute 4 large pobleno chilies (diced), 1 or 2 jalapeno chilies (minced), 2 onions (diced) with a couple tablespoons minced garlic until soft and slightly charred. Roasted poblano chilies work as well.
6. Puree 1/2 #10 can diced tomatoes with the sauteed vegetables in a blender or food processor.
7. Pour one pan of rice onto griddle. Stir to break up clumps and heat rice.
8. Pour half the puree mixture over the rice. Stir quickly to ensure even distribution of the sauce. Cook until mixture reaches 165 degrees or higher.
9. Check seasoning. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Portion into serving pans.
10. Repeat the process for additional pans of rice.

Mexican brown rice cooks on the griddle at around 350 degrees. 

Cook's position at Murphys, California, Christian camp

Here's recent posting from Gold Country Craigslist. The part-time position pays $9 per hour. To respond, click the box titled 'Contact' in the upper left corner of the Craigslist ad.

Position available immediately at Dream Mountain Christian Camp! We are looking for extra help in our camp kitchen for the busy summer season. We need someone local with reliable transportation that would be willing to work split shifts.

We are a Christian camp that's looking for someone with a strong work ethic, servant's heart and can exemplify the love of Christ through humble, excellent and genuine guest service.

Hours would be from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. for the lunch shift and 5 to 8 p.m. for dinner shift (with some flexibility). Summer dates would be July 14-20, July 23-26, July 27-31, August 1-4 and August 7-9. We will also need help on weekends after the summer season as an on-call basis.

We are a Christian family-run camp. If interested, please contact Camp Director Cheree Munoz.

Job Duties Include:

• Prepare, cook and present food quickly and efficiently, meeting our standards
• Assist in keeping the kitchen clean, hygienic and tidy, at all times
• Assist in fixing beverages, salads, lunch, dinner and simple desserts. 
• Assists with setting up serving line.
• Washes dishes and pots and pans after meals. 
• Operates dishwasher. 
• Cleans and secures dining area. 
• Checks in and putting away orders and deliveries in storeroom and freezer on days needed. 
• Performs heavy cleaning, such as ovens and grill, when needed. 
• Performs other duties as required. 
• Ability to work on your feet.
• Ability to lift 20-50 pounds

Hotcakes at Oakland Camp

Whole wheat hotcakes on the griddle at Oakland Feather River Camp earlier this week. Last month, the local appliance service technician replaced the four thermostats to the camp griddle. During the initial service call, John of Az-Tech Appliance discovered the thermometer tubes had split. The burners were either on or off. There was no middle ground. The griddle now works as it should.